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British, knowing, and just disreputable enough to change the tone.
For long tables, late starts, and the sort of company that makes the drive home a matter of judgement.
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Not every evening deserves it.
Poured cold. Proper glass. Good ice.
The right sort of company.
It takes different forms. None especially innocent.
With soda.
A little lighter. For long lunches that stopped pretending to be lunch around the second bottle.
Straight.
No flourish. No fuss. No real explanation the next morning.
With champagne.
restraint has made its case, been heard, and politely ignored.

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